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THE ALLURE OF PANTHERE DE CARTIER
Captivating & seductive, from royalty to movie stars the panthere de cartier is one of the most coveted jewels of the century
June 2022
- team luxe List
Changing with time and defined by its nature of craftsmanship, the Panthere de Cartier collection of high jewellery is so much more than just a style statement. The collection is charged with a magnetism that reveals one’s strength of character. It's an audacious symbol of fashion, strength and sex appeal.
From a small Parisian jewellery store to a Globally leading brand, Cartier has had a striking presence since the beginning. From 1847 to 2022, this particular panthere motif has exerted influence into people’s style since the 40’s. Cartier is said to lay the foundation for using animal motifs on jewellery worn by both men and women.
The journey started as a nickname for the daring Jeanne Toussaint, who was Cartier’s director of jewellery from 1933-1970. The bold and ferocious idea of creating jewellery pieces which immortalized this feline cat was crafted by Toussaint. She was also known as ‘The Panther’ because unlike other women earlier, she was appointed as The Head of Creation at Cartier, a position envied by plenty others. The symbol of the Panther till date stands for her own bold character.
In the 20th century the panthers already pervaded Western art and design due to their growing fascination and desire among African and Asian cultures where they have always been associated with royalty and power.
This untameable animal sparks energy, sensuality and strength in women. The panthere is an icon. An object of desire and fascination. Everything about the collection exudes defiance, power and freedom. It is this persona and vigour of Panther that has aided the brand to emerge as a legacy and be the most coveted piece of jewellery to be owned.
It was when George Barbier designed an invitation to an exhibition with cat illustrations that sowed the seeds to create more panther sculpture pieces. This image commissioned by Louis Cartier had a black panther lying at the feet of an exquisite woman.
1914 marked the beginning of this journey with the wild cat appearing on a wristwatch for the first time. The stones embellished watch epitomized the nature of a female and eccentric allure of the Panther. The watch consisted of white diamonds along with onyx stones
A cigarette case gifted to Toussaint by Cartier, which bore a platinum and onyx beast pacing between two emerald trees was the first figurative reproduction of the panthere. Following that a panthere patterned case with gold and black enamel was purchased by the Prince of Nepal.
Then in 1948, the Duchess of Windsor implored Toussaint to create the very first 3-dimensional Panther brooch, Until then jewellery pieces with animal sculptures were only worn by geishas and actors. This sculptural approach redefined Cartier's further creations with panthers, creating a completely contrasting existence for the brand. Astounded by the beauty of the brooch, later the Duchess acquired six more Panthere jewels. The panther brooch of pavé diamonds and sapphires, perched atop a 152.35ct sapphire cabochon, and an onyx and diamond panther bracelet previously owned by The Duchess of Windsor in 1949, which most recently achieved over $7 million at auction.
Following the Duchess’s footsteps, between 1949- 1950, American heiress Barbara Hutton, Maria Felix and French socialite Daisy Fellowes among many others started investing in Cartier’s Panther and thus began the Allure of Panther.
In 2005, the world was introduced to a modern version of the Panthère de Cartier ring with its fangs bared. This was the first appearance of the Cartier in a carved and chic design. 2012 was the year when the Panthère de Cartier necklace in white gold with pavé diamonds and emerald eyes was born. This modern contemporary jewel can be worn in dual ways, as a choker or an opera-length necklace.
Popular hip hop artist and American Rapper Jay-Z once donned an enormous Cartier’s Panther ring at the Grammys, influencing other men in the industry to own a Cartier Panther.
At the 2011 Met Gala, Madonna displayed an all Cartier look in her blue-silk gown with silver stars embellishing the sleeves and trail.
The Panthere de Cartier is a classic yet fascinating piece of object. Everything about the collection exudes defiance, power and freedom and maybe that is the reason why the Cartier Panthere’s repertoire embraces names like the iconic Princess Diana and leading women like Gwyneth Paltrow, Madonna, Dua Lipa, Cara Delevigne and many more.
GEMS JEWELS & WATCHES
Another Met Gala appearance for the panthere! Cara Delevingne wore some of the most impressive jewels of the night, all from Cartier, including a Panthère de Cartier necklace, Panthère earrings and a diamond necklace holding her side-swept hair in place
Pierre Rainero, Director of image, style and heritage of Cartier once said, “You aren’t going for a safe thing when you buy a Panthère or wear a Cartier Panthère. It represents a legacy, an element of permanence, and it projects a level of strength.”
The Panthere watch has explicitly earned a greater value of respect and desire in the eastern countries in Asia like India. Cartier’s roots expand in the ancient history of India when Jacques Cartier visited India to admire its serene beauty. Jacques not only ended up buying a large number of gems from India but also designed jewellery pieces for the Maharajas of India. Rumour is that when some brands went under during the Great Depression, Cartier did not due to the peaking commissions with Indian Maharajas. Deepika Padukone wearing a statement making Cartier de Panthere necklace at Cannes film festival in 2022 was an ode to India's deep rooted connection with Panthere.
